I remember December 10th, 2002 like it was yesterday. I was leaving my girlfriend at the time, I withdrew from school at UC Irvine and I was headed to the infamous North Shore of Oahu for 50 days. I only needed two classes to graduate so I wasn’t jeopardizing anything. I was risking my life for the adrenaline rush of body boarding massive, powerful waves. As I rode up the escalator at LAX, my girl was crying her heart out saying goodbye. I had a giant smile on my face because I had been looking forward to this moment the entire year.
While in college I competed throughout California, honing my skills. I surfed the biggest swells that would hit our coastline from Oxnard to San Diego. But honestly nothing can compare to the power of the ocean in Hawaii. I was 21 years old with no fear.
While in the terminal of LAX a beautiful woman approached me and said that was a cute moment between my girl and I. She kind of chuckled and said you’re going to N. Shore aren’t you because you don’t look like a tourist. It’s a solid hour drive from the airport to the N. Shore. I had arranged a ride from this guy who was a N. Shore transplant from California. The day before he said 30 bucks but when I woke up that morning I had a voicemail from him and he jacked the price up to $50.
This gorgeous woman says, my sister lives there, we’ll give you a ride. Outstanding! So far I haven’t even left LAX and the universe was working in my favor. We chatted for a bit about Orange County and boarded the plane.
I had done the Waikiki thing when I was 17 after high school graduation with my buddies. But this was different, I was determined to surf the N. Shore.
The plane made it safely and the woman and I met up in baggage claim. I had to wait a bit because I had a big board bag packed with boards and food. I wasn’t there for luxury, I was there with just enough money to scrape by. I was there to surf.
We gathered our luggage and here pulls up a Nissan Pathfinder with no roof and I met her sister Tiffany. She greeted us both with leis. In my mind I was in heaven. I had two beautiful women escorting me to N. Shore.
Story continues tomorrow…